The Flat Head HS005 Single Rider’s Jacket is a perfect example of understated excellence—clean, timeless, and built with uncompromising attention to detail. With its straight collar, black leather, and brass hardware, it offers a versatile design that can be dressed up or down while maintaining a strong, modern edge.

The leather:

This jacket is crafted from 1.3mm semi-aniline horsehide in a unique seal brown, produced by the legendary Shinki Hikaku tannery in Himeji, Japan—one of the most respected horsehide specialists in the world. It is a limited production piece, with very few units made each year.

The leather is specially developed by Shinki for The Flat Head, undergoing a meticulous vegetable tanning process that takes 4 to 6 months, followed by a distinctive brown tea-core dyeing. Over time, the surface develops a beautiful sheen, while the natural brown undertone gradually emerges, creating a rich, evolving patina unique to each jacket.

The tanning process itself is extensive, involving long drying and aging stages of up to a year, ensuring a dense, durable, and character-rich material. Learn more about Shinki Hikaku tannery through our in-depth post, where we documented our visit.

Construction:

The jacket is produced in Flat Head’s Stockburg workshop in Nagano, where the brand applies the same precision used in its renowned leather goods.

It features a lightweight kersey rayon lining made from bamboo fibers, offering a soft, breathable, and silky feel. The brown contrast stitching not only highlights construction but also enhances the visual evolution of the tea-core leather over time.

Durability is a key focus, with details such as leather piping construction in the back yoke, adding structural strength, and heavy-duty Universal zippers throughout. The jacket also includes adjustable waist buckles, which are brass-coated and designed to develop a vintage, worn-in appearance.

Every element—from stitching to hardware—reflects Flat Head’s commitment to precision, durability, and long-term aging potential.

Fit Notes: This model features broad shoulders, a slim chest, and a tapered waist, creating a strong, structured silhouette that becomes more natural as the leather breaks in. We recommend taking your usual Japanese leather jacket size. If you are not familiar with Japanese sizing, as a reference, a size 42 fits similarly to a Western Large. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting jacket to ensure the ideal fit.