The Double Helix “Conductor” is an original creation that blends masterful Japanese craftsmanship with the rugged elegance of 1930s Grizzly Sport jackets. Designed with cleaner lines and a subtly vintage spirit, it pays tribute to early motorcycling outerwear. Character, durability, and a richly evolving patina define this jacket—an heirloom piece built for riders and enthusiasts who value authenticity and artistry.

The leather:

The Conductor is crafted from 1.8mm Red Core horsehide, one of the most distinctive leathers used by Double Helix. Unlike traditional tea-core hides, which age to a warm medium brown, Red Core leather features a deep brown-reddish base layer beneath its black surface dye. As the jacket bends, creases, and wears in, the black gradually reveals a rich reddish-brown tone, ultimately exposing the red-influenced core that gives the leather its name. This layered evolution creates a dramatic, highly individualized patina.

Drum-dyed with minimal pigment to preserve grain clarity, the leather begins firm and structured but develops remarkable depth, softness, and dimensionality over time. Its density and richness make it a standout for those who appreciate a bold, expressive aging process.

Construction:

The “Conductor” reinterprets the silhouette of 1930s Grizzly Sport jackets, incorporating their rugged DNA while refining the pattern work, paneling, and overall balance. A tasteful nod to early riding jackets appears in the form of the 1930s-style bear clip—originally used to secure panels for added warmth. In this modern reinterpretation, it functions as a decorative hallmark, symbolizing character, craftsmanship, and classic motorcycling style.

The lining is a Japanese proprietary melton wool fabric developed exclusively for Double Helix, offering both warmth and a uniquely refined interior finish that complements the jacket’s robust exterior.

Working with 1.8mm horsehide is extremely demanding. Double Helix employs meticulous tailoring and reinforced construction to ensure the jacket maintains structure while gradually conforming to the wearer. Ultra-durable custom buttons, clean seam work, and carefully executed finishing details highlight the brand’s commitment to heirloom-level quality and authenticity.

Fit Notes: The Conductor features broad shoulders, a moderately slim chest, and a tapered waist, creating a strong, structured silhouette that becomes more natural as the leather breaks in. We recommend taking your usual Japanese leather jacket size. If you are not familiar with Japanese sizing, as a reference, a size 42 fits similarly to a Western Large. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting jacket to ensure the ideal fit.