No indigo, no dye, no finishing. The Lot 224-66M takes Denime’s reproduction of the 1966 model — the late-sixties American jean that sits at the heart of the brand’s XX Series — and cuts it from cloth that has been left exactly as it came off the loom. The fabric is Kurabo Mother Cotton, a 7.3 × 7.3 count selvedge developed with the Okayama mill from a blend that includes natural brown cotton, which gives the ecru its warmth. It is woven on a GL3 shuttle loom and goes through none of the usual rope dyeing, so what you see is the true construction of an XX denim: the uneven yarn, the slub, the hairy surface, in the color of the cotton itself.

At 14oz the cloth has real body, and because it is unsanforized and sold loomstate — unwashed — it will shrink to size in the first soak and then do what a living fabric does: soften, crease, and pick up the marks of wear and washing as a patina of its own, without the contrast of indigo to lean on.

The pattern reproduces the sewing specifications of the 1966 model and its silhouette: a straight leg with a mid rise and regular volume from the thigh to the hem, the easiest of the vintage cuts to wear every day. Details follow the period — an iron button fly, 100% cotton thread, copper rivets, a paper patch with the Denime logo and a white and yellow selvedge ID. Denime has been making jeans like this since 1988, as one of the Osaka Five. 100% cotton. Made in Japan.

Fit Notes: Denime remains faithful to non-washed, unsanforized (loomstate) denim, so it’s important to note that these jeans will shrink. We highly recommend soaking the jeans in warm water before first wear. Expect approximately 4 cm (1.5") of shrinkage in the waist and 7.5 cm (3") in the inseam after soaking, so please refer to the product size chart accordingly. This model fits true to size after shrinkage, meaning the tagged size closely matches the actual waist measurement once the shrinkage has occurred. Compared to most global American brands, sizing is similar, so you can take your usual size. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and taking shrinkage into account to find your perfect size.