From the maker

Take a long button down collar with gracefully flattering flare… add a button rounded cuff and a comfortable back pleat… find a common denominator in proud fabrics from the choicest Japanese looms, carefully sewn using fine thread and needlework… and you have the Joe McCoy & Co. Classic Button-Down. Wherever college men dress with distinction… wherever success-assured young executives foregather… there you will find this versatile favorite by the World’s finest shirtmaker.

The Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt or ‘OCBD’ traces its origins back to 19th century Scotland. Born from the creative experiments of a Scottish mill at the time, the mill began attributing the names of these unusual weaves to the four most prestigious universities of the era, Harvard, Yale, Cambridge, and Oxford, in an effort to add gravitas.

The fabric is renowned for its signature basket weave structure, a triumph of textile engineering. With an equal number of weft threads intricately crossed over an identical number of warp threads, it forms a fabric that is not only robust but also elegantly textured.

The button down collar design can be traced back to the Polo players of the British Raj. Faced with the challenge of collars flapping in the wind while on horseback, they sewed small buttons to the body of the shirt, anchoring the collar in place. In the late 19th century, this style was brought to the United States, where it grew in popularity. One desirable characteristic of a button-down collar is the shaping, which should produce a “roll”. To ensure this, our shirt features an 8.5cm, unfused collar, in keeping with examples from the mid 20th century. This traditional collar is matched with a classic, relaxed fit and length.

In the 1920s and 30s, the relaxed fit and robust yet comfortable cloth of Oxford shirts saw them become a favorite of Ivy League students. They would be paired with khaki trousers such as our The Real McCoy’s TROUSERS, COTTON, KHAKI, 1945, unconstructed blazers, and penny loafers as a part of an emerging, smart-casual style.

Our MS26001 JOE MCCOY BUTTON DOWN SHIRT has been made from a heavier oxford cotton cloth in comparison to our earlier MS22008 model and is constructed with single needle stitching. In homage to OCBDs of the 60s, a box pleat has been included beneath the yoke of the shirt, allowing for comfortable movement. Other classic details include a single chest pocket, button cuffs and mother of pearl buttons throughout.