Two steps almost every mill takes, Omoto leaves out. This denim receives only a shrink-to-fit sanforizing after weaving: no skew correction and no singeing, so the surface keeps its natural hairiness and the legs are free to twist slightly with wear, the way vintage denim did. The jeans come raw and rigid, and that is how they are meant to be worn in — from unwashed, for the strongest possible fades.

The cloth is a 15.5oz selvedge denim blended from 65% Texas cotton, chosen for its firm body and powerful fading, and 35% Zimbabwe cotton, which brings softness and strength to balance it. The warp is rope-dyed in 100% pure indigo, leaving the core of each yarn undyed: this white core is what produces the sharp contrast as the surface indigo wears away. The shade itself is an extra-dark indigo developed around 1990, built for high-contrast aging.

Weaving is done on a uniquely modified 1950s Sakamoto shuttle loom, adjusted to interlace heavy yarn firmly while holding the warp at extremely low tension — as close to hand-weaving as a machine gets — which gives the fabric the rough, uneven texture that defines how it ages. The work is carried out by craftsmen of the Sanbi region, the old provinces of Bizen, Bitchū and Bingo that make up Japan's denim belt.

The 0816 shares the loose pattern of the 0815: inspired by tailor-made trousers and drafted on the human anatomy, with a high rise (12.6" at the front on a 32), a roomy seat and thigh and a leg that tapers gently below the knee to an 8.7" opening. It is cut long, with a 35" inseam that leaves room for a cuff or a hem. Made in Japan.

Fit Notes: The 0816SZ runs large, even compared to most global American brands: the waist measures roughly two inches over the tagged size. Omoto produces even-numbered sizes only, and we recommend taking one size down from your usual size. The denim is sanforized, so shrinkage is minimal, and the waistband will stretch approximately 0.5" with wear, allowing the fit to settle over time. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart to find your perfect size.