Binchotan is Japan's white charcoal, made from the wood of the ubame oak and traditionally found in Japanese kitchens. Omoto puts it to a different use: as a dye. For the 0815 Charcoal, the brand takes its indigo denim and overdyes it with binchotan charcoal, a process that stiffens and darkens the cloth into a dusky black-blue that varies from pair to pair.

Underneath the charcoal sits proper indigo work. The warp is rope-dyed with 100% pure indigo, leaving the classic white core (中白) in the yarn for strong fade contrast, in the mid-tone shade of blue beloved since the 1950s. As the charcoal overdye gradually wears away, that indigo resurfaces — first as charcoal-toned undertones, then as blue at the stress points — so each pair develops its own character.

The denim itself is a 13.5oz selvedge blend of 65% U.S. Memphis cotton (27.8mm staple) and 35% Zimbabwe cotton (28.6mm), balancing a crisp, dry texture with supple softness that conforms to the body with wear. It is woven on a custom-tuned 1950s Sakamoto shuttle loom at low tension, which leaves the rough, vintage surface that deep fades need, and finished with a one-wash on unsanforized, loomstate fabric to keep the raw cotton feel.

The 0815 is the widest silhouette in Omoto's lineup, inspired by tailor-made trousers and drafted on a pattern based on human anatomy: a high rise and a roomy, loose straight leg that stays comfortable without losing its structured line.

Details run deep: heavy-duty bar tacks, custom engraved buttons, copper rivets, a peek-a-boo selvedge coin pocket, cotton-lined front pockets, a vegetable-tanned natural cowhide patch, the Omoto white tab on the back pocket and a blue selvedge ID.

Fit Notes: This charcoal edition runs smaller than usual for Omoto, as the overdye process shrinks the jeans more than the standard versions. The brand produces even-numbered sizes only, and compared to most global American brands we recommend taking one size up. The denim is unsanforized but has been heavily washed during the overdye, so no further shrinkage is expected. With regular wear, the waistband will stretch approximately 1 inch, allowing the fit to settle comfortably over time. That said, we don't recommend sizing down, as starting too tight may cause discomfort and alter the intended fit of the garment. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart to find your perfect size.