The THE REAL McCOY’S LOT. 001J / EARLY MODEL, LIGHT WASH follows a denim pattern introduced in the early 1900s and one which is widely regarded as one of the most iconic workwear garments in history. Known as the “First Type” denim jacket, it featured a boxy silhouette, a pleated front with a single front pocket with a button flap, and cinch-back adjusters at the waist for a customizable fit. The jacket became a staple for laborers, miners, and railroad workers in the early 20th century, valued for its durability and quality of construction.

By the mid-1950s, denim was moving beyond its origins as purely workwear. Jackets and jeans were increasingly worn as everyday clothing, particularly by younger generations, marking a clear shift in how denim was used and perceived. Decades later, this appreciation for worn-in denim resurfaced during the 1990s, when distressed finishes became widely accepted as a desirable expression of character rather than wear.

Unlike the raw denim used in other models, this jacket is produced in 13.25 oz. right-hand twill denim selected specifically for its response to processing. Heavily constructed denim intended to age slowly and naturally does not translate well to artificial finishing. As with true vintage garments, those fabrics are meant to develop over time. For this reason, a different denim was chosen, allowing the jacket to achieve a convincing, balanced fade through controlled treatment.

After laser processing, the garment undergoes stone washing and is then hand distressed to recreate the irregular wear patterns seen in both naturally-aged vintage pieces and well-executed 1990s distressed denim. Finished with a leather patch and assembled using cotton sewing thread throughout, the jacket maintains period-correct construction while offering a worn-in feel from the outset.

100% Cotton, 13.25 oz., Right-hand Twill Denim

Leather Patch

Cotton Sewing Thread Construction

Hand-Distressed, Stone-Washed Treatment

Made in Japan