The Double Helix Western Pioneer Indigo is a distinctive reinterpretation of the classic 1960s Type III jacket, combining iconic denim jacket design with the depth and durability of premium horsehide leather. Crafted in Japan, it stands out as a truly original piece that bridges the worlds of leather and denim.

The leather:

Made from 1.3mm horsehide sourced from Nitta Tannery in Himeji, this jacket features one of the most unique leather treatments available. Instead of traditional finishing, the leather is indigo dyed, allowing it to age in a way similar to denim.

As the jacket is worn, the indigo gradually fades, revealing depth, contrast, and character—developing a patina reminiscent of well-worn jeans. This innovative process, introduced by Double Helix in 2018, creates a dynamic aging effect rarely seen in leather garments.

The tanning process itself is extensive, involving long drying and aging stages of up to a year, and only a small percentage of hides meet Double Helix’s strict quality standards. The result is a leather that is both durable, expressive, and highly individual.

Construction:

Inspired by the classic Type III silhouette, the jacket features a clean, structured design with a modern edge. Double Helix enhances the original pattern with its signature inverted triangle paneling, creating a refined and balanced silhouette.

Due to the thickness of the horsehide, construction requires a high level of craftsmanship. The result is a jacket that maintains structure while gradually molding to the wearer. Finished with custom brass buttons, adjustable waist tabs, and a hidden internal chest pocket, every detail reflects precision and durability.

Unlike traditional denim jackets, this model omits handwarmer pockets, staying true to vintage specifications while maintaining a clean, minimal aesthetic.

Fit Notes: The Western Pioneer features broad shoulders, a moderately slim chest, and a tapered waist, creating a strong, structured silhouette that becomes more natural as the leather breaks in. We recommend taking your usual Japanese leather jacket size. If you are not familiar with Japanese sizing, as a reference, a size 42 fits similarly to a Western Large. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting jacket to ensure the ideal fit.