Ten meters of fabric a day — enough for eight garments. That is what a vintage loopwheel machine in Wakayama produces, and it is the reason this parka feels the way it does. Deluxeware runs the machine as it was designed to run, without the modifications other makers use to change the hand, so the cloth comes off as the loom intended: a fluffy, hand-knit-like loopback in 14oz, the medium weight of the brand’s S204 series — thick enough to hold warmth, soft enough to stretch and move with the body, and brushed on the inside. Modern equipment cannot copy the texture, which is the point of keeping the old machines running.

The pattern is a 1960s vintage-style hooded parka: a regular silhouette with a regular body, and three-dimensional raglan sleeves that follow the shoulder rather than sitting on it. It is sewn at Deluxeware’s own factory in Odate, Akita, on a 1950s Union Special flat seamer, which lays every seam flat against the skin and makes them outlast the fabric. Sizes XS, USM and USL are cut with side seams; the others are knitted in the round. One-washed. 100% cotton. Made entirely in Japan.

Fit Notes: The Deluxeware hooded parka runs very small. Deluxeware tends to run smaller than standard American sizing, and this model more so, so we recommend sizing up two from your usual size for a comfortable fit — an XL fits similarly to an American M. Deluxeware also offers USM and USL sizes, which are larger than XL and feature a more regular, less tailored cut; the USM fits similarly to an American L. The fabric is one-washed, though loopwheel knits can move a centimeter or two with washing and drying. As a reference, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting sweatshirt to ensure the right fit.