The SUKA JACKET, or SUKAJAN, derives its name from the Japanese port town of Yokosuka, located south of Tokyo. Yokosuka has historically hosted a significant American GI presence during times of conflict. Major shopping districts like Ginza offered Sukajan jackets as souvenirs for soldiers to take home, including sizes for children. These jackets were often personalized with embroidered motifs such as naval emblems, maps of visited destinations, and local designs like dragons, scenic views, and floral patterns. They served not only as souvenirs but also as a means for soldiers to share their wartime experiences.

Sukajan jackets gained popularity after World War II, with their peak occurring during the Korean War. By the 1960s, they had become fashionable among Japanese youth, leading to the widespread adoption of the term “Sukajan.”

The SUKA JACKET for JUNIORS / TIGER AND EAGLE takes inspiration from the children’s Sukajan jackets which were widely available throughout the Second World War and Korean War. It is made from cotton velveteen, a pile fabric originally produced in Europe but now exclusively made in Japan's Enshu region. The production process starts with warping cotton warp threads onto a beam and preparing the weft threads. The warp threads are starched and sized to prevent pilling and enhance durability, then woven into a basic fabric that is inspected for defects and assigned a serial number.

The fabric undergoes shearing to create its distinctive pile and shine, with skilled craftsmen using specialized blades to cut the weft threads. Following shearing, the fabric pieces are joined and desized to remove adhesives, washed in natural starch yeast to improve texture, and singed to remove burnt fibers. The fabric is then washed multiple times, dried, and inspected for quality. This meticulous process, taking about six months, ensures that only the finest velveteen, known as "Kanpachi Velvet," meets strict standards.

The intricate embroidery on these jackets is often created using the freehand technique known as Yokofuri embroidery. In Yokofuri embroidery, the needle moves back and forth in small increments, allowing the fabric to shift freely in all directions: vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. This technique, unlike home sewing machines that move the needle up and down, enables the creation of detailed designs. A knee-operated lever adjusts the needle's swing width, producing a variety of stitch thicknesses. The result is a fine-grained, multi-dimensional effect akin to an oil painting, rich with light and shade.

Just like the most desirable Sukajan, the SUKA JACKET for JUNIORS / TIGER AND EAGLE is fully reversible with cotton velveteen on one side and a recycled sateen lining on the other. Featuring freehand Yokofuri embroidery detailing on either side, the SUKA JACKET for JUNIORS / TIGER AND EAGLE is finished with a cotton-wool blend ribbing and a reversible nickel-finished zipper.

Cotton Velveteen

Recycled Non-Woven Interlining

Rayon Sateen Lining

Cotton/Wool Ribbing

Reversible Front Zipper, Nickel Finish

Freehand Yokofuri Embroidery

Made in Japan