The Flat Head HS005 Single Rider’s Jacket is a perfect example of understated excellence—clean, timeless, and built with uncompromising attention to detail. With its straight collar, black leather, and original silver studs on epaulettes, it offers a versatile design that can be dressed up or down while maintaining a strong, modern edge.

The leather:

This jacket is crafted from 1.3mm semi-aniline tea-core horsehide produced by the legendary Shinki Hikaku tannery in Himeji, Japan—one of the most respected horsehide specialists in the world.

The leather features a tea-core construction, meaning a brown base layer lies beneath the black surface dye. As the jacket wears in, the top layer gradually reveals the underlying tones, creating a rich, high-contrast patina unique to each piece.

Vegetable-tanned using mimosa bark, the leather develops a natural pinkish-brown undertone, while the semi-aniline finish preserves grain visibility and results in a deep, matte black appearance. Compared to fully aniline leather, this finish offers a slightly more controlled, refined look while still aging beautifully.

The tanning process itself is extensive, involving long drying and aging stages of up to a year, ensuring a dense, durable, and character-rich material. Learn more about Shinki Hikaku tannery through our in-depth post, where we documented our visit.

Construction:

The jacket is produced in Flat Head’s Stockburg workshop in Nagano, where the brand applies the same precision used in its renowned leather goods.

It features a lightweight kersey rayon lining made from bamboo fibers, offering a soft, breathable, and silky feel. The brown contrast stitching not only highlights construction but also enhances the visual evolution of the tea-core leather over time.

Durability is a key focus, with details such as leather piping construction in the back yoke, adding structural strength, and heavy-duty Universal zippers throughout. The jacket also includes adjustable waist iron buckles, which are designed to develop a vintage, worn-in appearance.

Every element—from stitching to hardware—reflects Flat Head’s commitment to precision, durability, and long-term aging potential.

Fit Notes: This model features broad shoulders, a slim chest, and a tapered waist, creating a strong, structured silhouette that becomes more natural as the leather breaks in. We recommend taking your usual Japanese leather jacket size. If you are not familiar with Japanese sizing, as a reference, a size 42 fits similarly to a Western Large. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting jacket to ensure the ideal fit.