Paper in the weft. Washi is the handmade Japanese paper drawn from the inner bark of mulberry and mitsumata, thin, fibrous, faintly translucent and far stronger than it looks; it has been made for more than a thousand years for calligraphy, shoji screens, bookbinding and art. Samurai Jeans spins that paper into yarn and weaves it into the weft of a 15oz selvedge denim, against a warp of extra-long staple Texas cotton with a soft, almost silky hand. The blend comes out at 60% cotton, 40% washi.

The effect is unusual for its weight. The washi weft makes the fabric lighter, cooler and more breathable than a conventional 15oz denim while keeping the texture and structure Samurai is known for, so the cloth sits at the heavy end of midweight without feeling like it. The warp is rope-dyed in 100% indigo and will fade the way the brand's denim does; the paper fiber adds its own dry, irregular surface to the mix. The denim is unsanforized and one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected.

The 310 is the widest silhouette in Samurai's lineup: a high rise, a generous top block and plenty of room all the way down a straight leg to a 9.8" opening — roomy, without tipping into exaggeration.

Details are Samurai's: custom "hinode" iron buttons, hammered copper rivets at the stress points engraved with サムライ, hidden rivets on the back pockets, a selvedge-cut coin pocket, raised belt loops, extra-heavy stitching and the brand's silver lamé selvedge ID. The pocket bags are jacquard-woven with "shogyo mujo" — 諸行無常, the Buddhist reminder that nothing stays the same — which is as good a description of a pair of jeans as any. Leather patch. Made in Japan.

Fit Notes: This model runs small: the waist measures under the tagged size. Compared to most global American brands, we recommend sizing up one from your usual size. The 310 is a wide straight with a high rise, a generous thigh, and a wide leg with a 9.8" opening, so the extra size keeps those proportions as intended rather than making the fit tight. The denim is unsanforized but has been one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected; the waistband will give slightly with wear. We don't recommend sizing down, as starting too tight may cause discomfort and alter the intended fit of the garment. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart to find your perfect size.