Twenty-five ounces, unwashed. We stock the non-wash version on purpose, because on a denim this extreme the first soak is part of the point — the cloth in full rigidity, the crackle of the first days, then the shrink-to-fit that makes the pair yours. It is the return, after a two-year hiatus, of one of Samurai's most formidable creations: the S510XX regular straight in the brand's proprietary 25oz "Special Project" selvedge denim, which sits firmly among the heaviest denims produced in Japan.

The fabric is spun from long-staple Texas cotton, rope-dyed in pure indigo and woven dense, heavily slubbed and rich in texture. The weight drives the indigo deeper into the yarn, and the payoff is the reason people wear denim like this: after a demanding break-in, the cloth softens and molds to the body while developing dramatic high-contrast fades, hard creasing and a depth of character that lighter fabrics cannot reach.

The S510XX is Samurai's classic regular straight: a high rise (11.2" at the front on a 32, measured raw), comfortable room through the seat and thigh and a straight leg with only a slight taper to an 8.3" opening — the brand's most traditional silhouette, and the right frame for a fabric this heavy.

As a special edition, the details go beyond the standard line: exclusive gold-painted "hinode" iron buttons, hammered copper rivets with hidden rivets on the back pockets, raised belt loops, a selvedge-cut coin pocket, a gold lamé selvedge ID, a specially made goatskin leather patch and a limited-edition pocket flasher. The back pockets carry Samurai's signature stitched arcuates, a detail reserved for select special models. Inside, the pocket bags are jacquard-woven with "shogyo mujo" (諸行無常), the impermanence of all things — a fitting sentiment for a pair of jeans built to change more than most.

The denim is unsanforized and unwashed. A first soak in warm water followed by a hang dry brings it down to its intended size. 100% cotton. Made in Japan.

Fit Notes: We stock this model raw and unwashed (non-wash), and our size chart shows the raw, unshrunk measurements. These jeans will shrink with first wash, so we strongly recommend soaking the jeans in warm water before first wear. Expect approximately 4 cm (1.5") of shrinkage at the waist and 7.5 cm (3") at the inseam after soaking — please refer to the size chart with these figures in mind. Compared to most global American brands, Samurai runs small, so we recommend sizing up one from your usual size: in the raw state that size will feel slightly loose, and the first soak brings it to the intended fit. The S510XX has a high rise, room through the thigh and a straight leg with a slight taper, and the raw inseam of roughly 37" leaves plenty of length to hem after the soak. After the soak, the waistband will stretch back slightly with wear. We don't recommend sizing down, as starting too tight may cause discomfort and alter the intended fit of the garment. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart to find your perfect size.