These jeans are the result of a two-year collaboration rooted in patience, experimentation, and a shared respect for Japanese textile tradition. Designed to be elegant, restrained, and timeless, this project explores Kakishibu denim from a new perspective—smooth, minimal, and deeply expressive through color rather than texture.

Limited to just 200 pairs worldwide, this collaboration stands as one of the most refined and thoughtfully executed denims we have ever released.

The Story Behind This Collaboration

This collaboration began more than two years ago during a visit by Keita Hinamoto to Madrid. At the time, Momotaro had never produced a Kakishibu fabric, and the idea of working with traditional Japanese persimmon dye immediately sparked something special. While other Japanese brands had explored indigo warp and Kakishibu weft combinations, none had attempted it on a sanforized denim, and certainly not with the level of control and refinement we had in mind.

From the outset, the vision was clear: create a fabric that felt elegant, minimal, and timeless. No exaggerated slub, no aggressive texture—just a smooth, rigid surface where all the character would come from color, cut, and detail. The goal was to let the dyeing and construction speak for themselves. What followed was an intensive development process, with Keita working closely and daily with Momotaro’s mill team, testing countless Kakishibu bath layers and tones for the weft yarn until the final balance was achieved. By the time the fabric was perfected, eight months had already passed.

Thanks to Momotaro being one of the very few brands with its own looms, we were able to experiment freely with different weights and weaving tensions. The result is a denim that feels intentional in every sense—considered, restrained, and quietly powerful. Limited to just 200 pairs, this project stands as one of our most meaningful collaborations to date.

The Fabric

The denim is a 15.7oz sanforized selvedge, woven at high tension using Zimbabwe cotton, known for its strength, length, and clean fiber structure. The warp yarns are pure indigo rope-dyed, delivering depth and clarity, while the weft yarns are dyed using Kakishibu, a traditional Japanese tannin dye made from unripe persimmon fruits.

Kakishibu (柿渋) has been used in Japan since at least the 13th century, valued not only for its rich, earthy tones but also for its natural properties—antibacterial, insect-repellent, and water-resistant. Like henna, Kakishibu is an oxidation dye: with exposure to sunlight, it gradually deepens and darkens, shifting toward warmer caramel tones over time. The persimmon itself is a symbol of longevity and good fortune, traditionally harvested in autumn and early winter, dotting snowy landscapes with vivid orange fruit—an image that perfectly reflects the quiet poetry behind this fabric.

The sanforization process removes irregular shrinkage and softens the surface texture, resulting in a denim that is smooth, structured, and rigid rather than slubby. This allows the complex interaction between indigo and Kakishibu to take center stage. The color is deep yet calm, with warm undertones that reveal themselves subtly as the fabric ages, embodying the Japanese concept of Wabi-Sabi—finding beauty in imperfection and change.

The Details

Every detail was chosen to support the fabric’s refined character while adding depth and narrative. One of the defining elements is the custom selvedge ID, composed of a peach–brown–peach line. Peach has always been Momotaro’s iconic selvedge color, while the brown center thread echoes the Kakishibu-dyed weft, visually linking tradition and collaboration in a single, understated detail.

The hardware tells its own story. During development, we struggled to find buttons and rivets that felt right—Momotaro’s current indigo hardware was too bright, while their black hardware felt too stark. The solution came unexpectedly while comparing the fabric to an old pair of Momotaro Legacy Blue jeans. The matte copper hardware used on those discontinued models—warm, slightly brown, and understated—proved to be a perfect match. Despite being out of production for years, Momotaro agreed to recreate this hardware exclusively for these 200 pairs, an extraordinary commitment for such a limited run.

Stitching is tonal and carefully balanced to harmonize with both warp and weft, reinforcing the minimalist aesthetic. Construction includes classic Momotaro elements such as hidden back pocket rivets, raised belt loops, and a selvedge coin pocket, all executed with precision and restraint. Inside the waistband, a Japanese indigo Kasuri yoke lining adds a deeply meaningful layer. Kasuri, a traditional resist-dye technique similar to Ikat, introduces subtle irregularity and depth, reinforcing the handmade spirit of the garment while remaining hidden—an intimate detail meant for the wearer alone.

The pocket bags are made from Momotaro’s heavy-duty canvas and feature a custom silkscreen collaboration artwork, with each pair individually numbered from 1 to 200. The natural cowhide leather patch, stitched tonally and designed with a belt pass-through, will age naturally, darkening toward a rich caramel tone that becomes increasingly harmonious with the Kakishibu fabric. Completing the presentation is a kaki-colored silky pocket flasher, a final nod to the persimmon at the heart of this project.

The Fit and Sizing Notes

The jeans are cut in Momotaro’s #100 Straight fit, developed during the brand’s rebranding and widely regarded as one of their most balanced silhouettes. The fit features a high rise, generous room through the thighs, and a clean, almost straight leg with minimal taper from the knee down. It works equally well with heritage boots, modern sneakers, or a classic Japanese cuff to showcase the weft color.

Fit Notes: These jeans fit true to size. Compared to most global American brands, a size 31 fits similarly to a standard 31. We recommend taking your usual size for a comfortable fit. The fabric is sanforized, so shrinkage will be minimal. The waist will experience the typical stretching seen in sanforized denim — expect approximately 0.5 inch of stretch with wear. As a reference, we strongly recommend checking our size chart and comparing it with your best-fitting jeans to ensure the right fit.