From the maker
The ONI "Kiwami" represents the evolution of the beloved Oni "Kase" denim. This updated version places a strong emphasis on achieving exceptional vertical fading. Crafted with a 16oz ultra-low tension weave and dyed with natural indigo, the Kiwami fabric boasts a distinctive texture and color that sets it apart.
For many years, Masao Oishi has dedicated his efforts to creating denim that can authentically capture the unique color and texture of hank dyeing in rope dyeing. Drawing from his extensive experience and specialized techniques, the Kiwami fabric was born. In hank dyeing, a bundle of ring-shaped cotton threads is dipped into a pot containing natural indigo dye, soaked, removed, squeezed, and exposed to the air for oxidation. The depth of indigo blue in the threads is determined by how many times this oxidation process is repeated.
The inspiration behind ONI Kiwami fabric derives from the traditional "Awa-Shoai (阿波正藍)" dyeing method. Creating Kiwami required the meticulous arrangement of light and dark rope-dyed natural indigo threads, a task that demanded exceptional attention to detail and expertise. As a result, Kiwami resembles denim reminiscent of "Awa-Shoai" woven with indigo blue threads hank-dyed by skilled craftsmen. This unique rope-dyed natural indigo denim is unparalleled, primarily because the threads' cores remain white, allowing for captivating color fades, gradation, and denim aging, a feature not achievable through hank dyeing.
The outcome is a distinctive natural indigo fabric with abundant slub and a captivating range of indigo shades, a hallmark of ONI's craftsmanship. This denim is a testament to the artistry of the brand, showcasing both remarkable texture and color. Throughout the fabric, you'll notice the interplay of thinner and thicker threads, transitioning from deep indigo to vibrant electric blue. The jacket is made with all the superior-quality ONI details such as copper buttons, high-quality pocket cotton lining and a custom veg-tanned horsehide leather patch.
The cut is a modern Type III fit with side-seam pockets. Despite being a Japanese jacket, like most ONI garments, we find the sizing of this Type II to be more Western than Japanese. If you usually wear a size M in American jackets, you'll find a suitable fit with this jacket in size 40 (M). However, as always, we recommend consulting our size chart for the perfect fit. It is unsanforized but once washed, so there will be no shrinkage.
In the words of Masao Oishi himself, "I think Kiwami, launched last year, is one of the top three denims in over 50 years of my career." It's a testament to the exceptional quality and innovation embodied by ONI's Kiwami denim.
The legend of ONI is alive to this day. In recent years Oishi-San has devoted himself to experimenting with widely varying grammages, rough textures, different indigo dyeing techniques and novelty cuts while always maintaining a very limited production and wielding his experience in denim which now goes back more than 60 years.
ONI Denim 02527P "Kiwami" 16oz Natural Indigo Type III Jacket
Redcast Heritage Co.approximately≈$420 · the shop's price€375.00
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View this listing on the shopBy ONI DENIM
Ships from Madrid, Madrid, Spain
Redcast Heritage Co.
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